How to Mount a Varsity Letter for Framing

How to Mount a Varsity Letter for Framing: The Layout That Reads Right

A varsity letter shadow box reads as a complete achievement display when the layout, mounting, and pin placement are right. Here is the workshop standard.

A varsity letter is a high-school keepsake worth preserving. Most are felt or chenille fabric with embroidered patches sewn on. They are bulky for their size, irregular in shape, and not flat. Framing them requires a deeper frame than a standard photograph and a mounting approach that holds the letter in place without damaging it.

This guide walks through the right way to frame a varsity letter, from choosing the depth to mounting the fabric securely.

Step-by-Step: Mounting a Varsity Letter for Display

• A shadow box or deep frame (2 inch minimum depth)
• A backing board (linen-wrapped foam core in a complementary color)
• Conservation pins or small fabric-friendly fasteners
• Optional: a mat with a window cut for the letter
• Framer's grade acrylic glazing

The varsity letter sits between the backing board and the glazing. The depth of the frame has to accommodate the letter's thickness without compressing it.

Choosing the frame size and depth

Most varsity letters are 8 to 12 inches across. The frame should give a 4 to 6 inch border on every side, putting the outer dimensions in the 16x20 to 20x24 range.

Depth depends on what is on the letter:

• Plain felt letter, no patches: 1.5 inch depth is enough
• Letter with one or two patches: 2 inch depth recommended
• Letter with multiple sewn-on patches and badges: 2.5 to 3 inch depth

If you plan to include other items (a yearbook photo, a team photograph, a small medal, a class ring), increase the depth to 3 inches or more and design the layout with a small mat opening for each item.

The backing fabric

The backing should match the school colors or complement the letter without competing. Common choices:

• Linen in school primary color (royal blue, forest green, gold, red)
• Black or dark navy for letters with bright colors
• Dark gray for a more modern look
• Dark wood-tone fabric for traditional schools

Avoid pure white or off-white backing. The letter will float visually and look uncentered. A solid darker color provides contrast and reads as deliberate.

Mounting the letter

Two approaches work for fabric mounting:

Pin mounting (recommended)

Use small T-pins or specialized fabric pins. The pins go through the felt or chenille at points where they will not damage the embroidery. Common pin locations:

• Top corner of the letter (one pin)
• Bottom corner (one pin)
• Center middle (one pin if the letter is large enough)

For a typical letter (8 to 10 inches), three pins are sufficient. The pins should hold the letter flat against the backing without pulling or distorting the fabric.

Pins should be conservation-grade (stainless steel or coated brass). Common pins from a craft store can rust or stain the fabric over time.

Sewing mounting

For a more permanent display, the letter can be lightly hand-stitched to the backing fabric. Use a thread color that matches the letter so the stitches are invisible. The stitches go through the back of the letter at the corners and through the backing fabric.

Sewing is reversible (the stitches can be cut later) but takes more time during framing. Best for letters that will not be removed for decades.

What not to do

Do not glue the letter to the backing. Glue is permanent, can stain the fabric, and damages the felt or chenille over time. Almost any fabric adhesive that seems "removable" is not.

Do not pin through the embroidered letters or numbers themselves. The pin can stretch the embroidery and create visible holes.

Do not stretch the letter taut. The fabric should sit naturally against the backing, not pulled tight.

Adding context items

Many customers include other school memorabilia alongside the letter. Common additions:

Letter jacket photograph. A 4x6 or 5x7 photograph of the student in their letter jacket, mounted in a small mat opening within the shadow box. Pairs naturally with the letter.

Team photograph. The varsity team photograph for the year the letter was earned. Mounted in another small opening.

Patches not sewn to the letter. State championship patches, all-conference patches, or other earned recognition. Mounted on the backing alongside the letter.

Small medal or trophy plaque. A pinned medal or a small brass plaque with stats. Adds visual interest.

School pin. A class pin or athletic department pin. Pinned to the backing.

A clean shadow box has the letter as the centerpiece with one or two supporting items. More than three or four added items starts to look crowded.

The mat (optional)

A mat is not required for varsity letter framing. The letter sits directly against the backing with no mat. This works fine for most displays.

If you want a more formal look, a mat with a window cut for the letter can be added. The mat opening is cut about 1/4 inch larger than the letter on each side, leaving a small visible reveal of the backing fabric. The mat color should match either the school colors or a neutral that does not compete with the letter.

For multi-element shadow boxes (letter plus photographs plus other items), a mat with multiple openings gives each item its own framed presentation. This is a more complex build and adds 30 to 60 dollars to the cost depending on how many openings.

The glazing

Every shadow box is glazed in framer's grade acrylic, which is lighter than glass and shatter-resistant.

Because acrylic is shatter-resistant, it is the safer choice for larger boxes (20x24 and beyond) or for letters in homes with kids. A drop won't shatter and won't damage the letter.

Frame profile

The frame moulding should complement the school colors or the letter without competing. Three patterns work:

Wide dark wood frame (walnut, espresso, dark cherry). The classic letterman aesthetic. Anchors the shadow box and lets the letter colors carry.

School-color painted frame. A frame painted in the school's primary color. High impact but harder to coordinate with the rest of the room.

Modern thin black or dark frame. For a more contemporary look. The letter still reads as the focus.

The frame width should be proportional to the shadow box. A 16x20 box looks balanced with a 1 to 1.5 inch wide frame. Wider frames overwhelm the letter.

Frequently asked questions

Can I frame the letter inside a regular flat picture frame?

Not well. A flat frame compresses the letter against the glazing and damages the felt over time. You need at least a 1.5 inch deep frame, more if the letter has thick patches.

What if the letter has patches that stick out a lot?

Increase the frame depth to 2.5 or 3 inches. The patches should not press against the glazing. If the letter has very thick decorations (a bulky mascot patch, a 3D applique), a 4 inch depth may be needed.

Can I include the letter jacket in the frame too?

A full letter jacket is too bulky for most shadow boxes. The letter is removed from the jacket (carefully, to avoid damaging the stitching) and mounted on its own. The jacket itself is stored elsewhere.

Will the letter fade in the frame?

Felt and chenille can fade over decades, especially in direct sunlight. Hanging the frame away from direct sun keeps fading minimal over the typical lifetime of the display.

Is it okay to clean the letter before framing?

Light dusting with a soft brush is fine. Do not wash the letter, even with mild soap. The felt and chenille can shrink, fade, or stain. Sewn-on patches can shift. Take the letter to a textile dry cleaner if it has noticeable stains.

Can I add the letter to a frame later?

The shadow box can be ordered with a removable back, allowing the letter to be added at home. This works if the customer wants to do the mounting themselves or wants to see the empty frame first. Most customers prefer the framing service to handle the mounting.

The goal is for the letter to look the same at the high school reunion as it did the day it was earned. Done right, that is what happens.