
Framing 101: A Complete Guide to Custom Picture Framing
Quick answer
Picture framing is the assembly of four components into a sealed display environment: moulding (the visible frame profile), mat (the bordered window between frame and art), glazing (the protective surface, usually acrylic), and backing (the sealed rear layer that keeps dust and moisture out). The right combination depends on the art itself, the room it will live in, and how long you need the result to hold up. This pillar guide covers every decision a first-time buyer faces: materials, construction, color, acrylic glazing options, archival mat grades, and how to recognize which option is right for your particular piece. The full breakdown follows below.
Framing 101: The Complete Guide to Custom Picture Framing
From the moulding to the glazing, the mat to the mount, every decision in picture framing serves either how the piece looks or how long it lasts. Here is the complete pillar guide.
Custom picture framing involves more decisions than most buyers realize. Frame moulding, mat board, glazing, mounting, hardware, and installation all require choices that affect both how the framed piece looks and how long it lasts. This guide is the complete walkthrough for first-time buyers and a refresher for anyone who hasn't framed art in a while.
Custom Picture Framing Explained from the Ground Up
Picture framing is built to the dimensions and specifications of your specific piece. The frame is cut to size. The mat is cut to your opening. The acrylic glazing is sized to the frame. The mounting matches what your art needs.
This is different from ready-made frames. Ready-made frames come in fixed sizes (8x10, 11x14, 16x20) and your art either fits or doesn't. Picture framing has no size constraint. Your art's dimensions dictate the frame, not the other way around.
The cost difference is significant: ready-made frames at 16x20 sell for 25 to 60 dollars; picture frames at the same size cost 80 to 250 dollars depending on materials. The cost premium pays for cut-to-size everything plus archival materials plus assembly labor.
The five components of every framed piece
Every framed piece has the same five components:
- The frame moulding, the wood profile around the outside
- The mat board, the bordered window between the frame and the art
- The glazing, the acrylic protecting the front
- The mounting, how the art is held in place behind the mat
- The backing, the rigid back that supports the assembly
Each component has decisions and tradeoffs. The right combination depends on the art, the room, and the budget.
Step 1: choose the frame moulding
Frame moulding is the wood profile around the outside of the frame. The choice affects the visual weight of the framed piece and its fit in the room.
Wood moulding comes in profiles ranging from narrow (0.5 inch) to wide (3+ inches). The wood can be left natural, stained, painted, or finished with metallic leaf. Solid hardwoods (cherry, walnut, oak) are stable and long-lasting. Composite wood (MDF or pine wrapped in veneer) is cheaper but warps faster.
Profiles range from clean, minimal contemporary styles to ornate traditional ones, so wood moulding suits everything from gallery-style modern art to heritage pieces. Narrow, simple profiles read modern; wider, detailed profiles read traditional.
The frame width should be proportional to the print. A 16x20 print typically wants a 1.5 to 2.5 inch frame. A 24x36 print wants 2 to 3 inches. Wider frames overwhelm small prints; narrower frames look undersized on large prints.
Step 2: choose the mat board
Mat board is the bordered window between the frame and the art. Three grades exist:
- Regular mat (wood pulp): acid-neutral at manufacture but yellows over years. Use only for posters, kids' art, replaceable prints.
- Alpha cellulose mat: purified wood pulp, no lignin. Stays neutral for 50+ years. Standard for most prints and photographs.
- Cotton rag mat: 100% cotton fiber, no lignin to begin with. Stays neutral indefinitely. Use for original art, signed prints, irreplaceable pieces.
The mat width affects the visual presence of the print. Recommended widths:
- 5x7 photo: 1.5 to 2 inches of mat border
- 8x10 photo: 2.5 to 3 inches
- 11x14 print: 3 inches
- 16x20 print: 3.5 to 4 inches
- 18x24 poster: 4 inches
Color choices range from cool whites (modern, clean) to warm whites (traditional, soft) to ivory (heritage) to neutral grays (gallery). Saturated colors (cobalt, kelly green, terracotta) work for monochromatic art or specific design statements.
Step 3: choose the glazing
Glazing is the acrylic protecting the front of the framed piece. We glaze every frame in framer's grade acrylic, which is lighter than glass and shatter-resistant. Two main options:
- Framer's grade acrylic: clear, lightweight, shatter-resistant. The standard for most framing.
- Non-glare acrylic: the same lightweight, shatter-resistant acrylic with a matte surface that cuts reflections. The upgrade for well-lit rooms or pieces hung opposite a window.
For most framing, framer's grade acrylic is the right balance of clarity and durability. Non-glare acrylic is the upgrade when glare is a concern. Because acrylic is shatter-resistant and lighter than glass, it is the practical choice for shadow boxes, large frames, and homes with kids.
Step 4: choose the mounting
Mounting is how the art is held in place behind the mat. Methods:
- Photo corners: small acid-free pockets at each corner of the print. No adhesive on the art. Reversible. Standard for prints and photographs.
- Hinge mounting: strips of acid-free linen tape attached to the back of the art at the top corners. The art hangs slightly forward of the backing for ventilation. Used for valuable original art.
- Float mount: the art is suspended in front of the backing with no mat covering its edges. Reveals the artwork's deckled edges or signature.
- Dry mount: the art is heat-bonded to a rigid backing using adhesive. Permanent. Used for posters and items with no preservation concerns.
- T-pin mount: for needlework, fabric art, or three-dimensional objects. Pins through the back of the art into a foam-core backing.
For photographs and prints, photo corners are the default. For original art or anything valuable, hinge mounting. For art with deckled edges or signatures meant to show, float mount.
Step 5: choose the backing
Backing is the rigid material that supports the entire assembly. Two main options:
- Acid-free foam core: the standard backing. Lightweight, archival, easy to pin into.
- Coroplast or rigid foam: for shadow boxes or oversized frames where extra rigidity matters.
The backing should match the archival quality of the rest of the assembly. A cotton rag mat with regular cardboard backing is inconsistent, the cardboard contaminates the assembly.
Hanging hardware
Once the frame is built, it needs to hang on a wall. Three hardware types:
- D-rings with picture wire: the standard for most frames. Two metal rings on the back, wire threaded between, hangs over a wall hook.
- Sawtooth hangers: for small frames under 5 pounds. Single-point mount.
- French cleats: for heavy frames or shadow boxes. Two interlocking strips, one on the wall, one on the frame.
The hardware should be rated for at least 1.5 times the frame's total weight.
Pricing transparency
Your price depends on the size, the moulding, the mat, and whether you upgrade to non-glare acrylic. A fair quote shows the breakdown: moulding, mat, glazing, mounting, backing, and labor, not a single flat number with no detail. Our designer prices every choice in real time as you build, so you see exactly what each part costs before you order.
How to know the frame is right before you order
For online picture framing, three tools manage the risk:
- Visual configurator, see your art with the chosen materials in real time
- Sample program, order mat and moulding samples to confirm color in person
- 30-day satisfaction guarantee, return if the result doesn't work
Use the configurator for the major decisions, the sample program for color confirmation on valuable pieces, and the satisfaction guarantee as the safety net.
When picture framing is worth it vs ready-made
Picture framing makes sense when:
- The art is non-standard size (anything not 8x10, 11x14, 16x20, etc.)
- The art is valuable or irreplaceable
- The display location demands premium presentation
- You want specific mat colors or frame finishes
Ready-made framing makes sense when:
- The print is a standard size and replaceable
- Budget is tight
- The display is temporary
Both have a place. The right answer depends on the art and the use.
Frequently asked questions
How long does picture framing take?
Online picture framers typically ship in 5 to 10 business days. Local frame shops typically take 2 to 4 weeks because they batch orders and use local supply chains.
Can I bring my own art to a frame shop?
Yes. Most local frame shops accept walk-in customers with art in hand. Online services require the art to be at home and the customer to enter dimensions accurately.
What if my frame arrives and I don't like it?
Return it under the satisfaction policy. Quality online framers offer 30-day no-questions returns with free return shipping.
Can I frame things other than prints?
Yes, three-dimensional objects (jerseys, military medals, wedding bouquets, instruments) go in shadow boxes. Diplomas, certificates, recipe cards, and ephemera all work in picture frames. Specialty subjects often need custom shadow box configurations.
What's the most common mistake first-time framers make?
Going too narrow on the mat width. The screen makes a 2-inch mat look fine; in person it reads cramped. Default to the wider end of the recommended range for the print size.
What we ship
Every picture frame we build follows the standard:
- Frame moulding cut to your dimensions, profile chosen from 80+ options
- Mat board in your chosen grade and color, opening cut to your specification
- Framer's grade acrylic glazing, clear or non-glare
- Mounting matched to your art type
- Acid-free backing
- Wall hanging hardware
The configurator walks you through each decision in plain English with the cost shown live. The total is the sum of the components, no hidden markup.
The goal is for the framed piece to look right, last decades, and arrive without surprise. This guide is the underlying knowledge that makes the decisions easier.
Related guides
For the next layer of detail on the topics in this pillar:
- How to frame a picture: step-by-step assembly for any artwork type, with a decision tree by use case.
- How to frame a canvas: stretched canvas takes a floater frame, not a regular frame. Full walkthrough.
- Floater frames explained: how the open-back channel works, how to size depth and reveal gap.
- DIY vs. custom picture frame: real cost comparison, tool requirements, and when each path makes sense.
- Matboard guide: what matboard is, conservation grades, thickness options.
Related reading
- Picture Frame Anatomy: The Complete Glossary of Framing Terms
- What Custom Picture Framing Actually Costs in 2026
- How to Frame a Picture: A Step-by-Step Guide for Any Artwork
- How to Frame a Canvas: The Complete Guide for Stretched Canvas Art
- DIY vs. Custom Picture Frame: When to Build Your Own and When to Buy
- Floater Frames Explained: How They Work and When to Use One
