How to Frame a Picture: A Step-by-Step Guide for Any Artwork

Framing a picture comes down to four decisions: the frame style, the mat, the glazing, and how you'll hang it. Get those four right and any artwork looks professionally framed.

Framing a picture sounds simple, drop the photo in the frame and hang it on the wall. But the four decisions you make along the way (frame, mat, glazing, mount) determine how the framed piece looks, how long the artwork lasts, and how proud you are of it five years from now. This guide walks through every step for any kind of artwork.

Step-by-Step: How to Frame a Picture at Home or in a Custom Shop

Every framing project comes down to the same four choices:

The frame. Style, color, width, depth, and material.
The mat. Color, width, single or double, conservation grade or standard.
The glazing. Clear acrylic or non-glare acrylic.
The mount. How the artwork attaches to the backing.

The right answer for each depends on what you're framing. A movie poster needs different choices than a child's school photo or an original watercolor.

Step 1: Measure your artwork

Measure the artwork edge to edge with a ruler or tape measure. Write down both dimensions in inches.

If your artwork is one of the standard sizes (4×6, 5×7, 8×10, 8.5×11, 11×14, 16×20, 18×24, 24×36), you can buy a ready-made frame in that size. If it isn't, you need a custom frame built to your dimensions, or you'll have to trim the artwork to fit a standard size (which is rarely the right call for original art).

For photographs you took on a DSLR camera, the default print ratio is 2:3, meaning 4×6, 8×12, 12×18, 16×24, and so on. Most ready-made frames are 4:5 (8×10, 11×14, 16×20) or 5:7, so DSLR photos usually need either picture framing or printing at a non-default size.

Step 2: Pick the frame style

Match the frame to the artwork and the room:

Modern art prints, posters, photography, flat or thin profile, matte black, white, or natural wood.
Traditional artwork, family photos, certificates, wider profile, stained wood (walnut, mahogany, oak), or ornate gold.
Children's art and casual photos, colorful, painted, or distressed wood frames.
Gallery and museum-style framing, flat or thin black or natural wood with wide white mat.

Match frame width to artwork size. Small artwork (up to 11×14) takes a skinny frame (0.5 to 1 inch wide). Medium artwork (11×14 to 16×20) takes a medium frame (1 to 1.5 inches). Large artwork (16×20 and up) takes a wider frame (1.5 to 3+ inches).

Step 3: Decide whether to add a mat

A mat is the colored border between the artwork and the frame. Mats serve three purposes: they give the artwork breathing room, prevent the artwork from touching the glazing, and add a color border that frames the image.

Always add a mat for: photographs, certificates, fine art prints, watercolors, anything irreplaceable.
Skip the mat for: large posters (the poster fills the frame), canvas (use a floater frame instead), and anything where you want a tight modern look.

For mat width, 2 to 3 inches is the standard border. Wider mats (3 to 4 inches) make small artwork feel important. Narrow mats (1 inch) work for big posters.

For mat color, start with off-white or warm gray. These let the artwork lead. Pull a color from the artwork itself if you want the framed piece to feel custom. Avoid trendy colors that compete with the artwork. (Order free mat samples to compare colors against your art in your own light before you commit.)

Step 4: Pick the glazing

The glazing is the clear surface that protects the front of the framed piece. Every frame is glazed in framer's grade acrylic, which is lighter than glass and shatter-resistant. Two options:

Clear acrylic, clear, lightweight, shatter-resistant. The standard for most framing.
Non-glare acrylic, the same lightweight, shatter-resistant acrylic with a matte surface that cuts reflections. The upgrade for well-lit rooms or pieces hung opposite a window.

For most home framing, clear acrylic is the right balance of clarity and durability. Non-glare acrylic is the upgrade when glare is a concern. Because acrylic is shatter-resistant and lighter than glass, it is the practical choice for large frames, shadow boxes, and homes with kids.

Step 5: Mount the artwork

The mount is how the artwork attaches to the backing board. The right mount depends on whether the artwork is reversible (you want to be able to remove it without damage) or not.

Hinge mount with acid-free tape, reversible, archival, standard for photographs and original art on paper.
Corner mount with photo corners, fully reversible, used for valuable photographs.
Dry mount, permanent, even, used for posters and large prints to keep them perfectly flat.
Float mount, artwork sits on top of the backing with no overlapping mat, edges visible. Used for deckle-edge paper and handmade prints.

For irreplaceable artwork, always use a reversible mount. Dry mounting is permanent and can damage value.

Step 6: Assemble the frame

If you bought a custom frame, it arrives assembled and you just need to slide your artwork in and seal the back. If you're using a frame kit or building from scratch:

Clean the inside of the acrylic with a microfiber cloth.
Place the acrylic face-down on a clean surface.
Lay the mat (cut side down) on top of the acrylic.
Position the artwork on the backing board, mounted with your chosen technique.
Place the backing board (with artwork) face-down on top of the mat.
Set the frame face-down over the stack and align the edges.
Secure the stack inside the frame with framer's points (small metal triangles) or tabs.
Seal the back with kraft paper or sealing tape to keep dust out.

Step 7: Add hanging hardware

For frames under 16×20, a sawtooth hanger on the back is enough.

For frames 16×20 to 24×36, D-rings with picture wire spread the weight across two anchor points on the wall.

For frames over 24×36, two D-rings with heavy-gauge wire and two wall anchors. Big frames are heavy. A single sawtooth will pull out.

Mount D-rings about 1/3 down from the top of the frame on each side. String picture wire across the back with a few twists at each ring. The wire should sit slightly below the top of the frame when taut.

Decision tree by artwork type

Photograph, frame + acid-free mat + non-glare acrylic + hinge mount.
Original watercolor or print, frame + acid-free double mat + non-glare acrylic + corner mount.
Movie poster, frame + no mat (or thin mat) + clear acrylic + dry mount.
Diploma or certificate, frame + double mat (school colors) + clear acrylic + hinge mount.
Child's artwork, frame + colored mat + clear acrylic + corner mount.
Stretched canvas, floater frame, no mat, no glazing. See our how to frame a canvas guide.
Three-dimensional keepsake, shadow box, not a regular frame.

Frequently asked questions

What is the proper way to frame a picture?

The proper way to frame a picture is to use acid-free materials (mat, backing, mounting tape), reversible mounting (hinges or corners) for irreplaceable artwork, framer's grade acrylic glazing for anything that will see daylight, and a frame proportional to the artwork size. Skip these steps for posters and short-term displays. Start your custom frame to see all of these options in one place.

How do you frame a picture at home?

Buy a ready-made frame in your artwork's size or a frame kit. Clean the acrylic, lay it face-down, stack the mat, then the artwork on its backing, then the frame face-down over the stack. Secure with framer's points and seal the back. Hang with a sawtooth or D-rings depending on weight.

Do I need a mat to frame a picture?

A mat is recommended for photographs, certificates, fine art, and anything you'll keep more than a few years. The mat keeps the artwork off the glazing (preventing moisture damage) and adds a finished border. Skip the mat for posters and modern art prints where you want a tight look.

What kind of glazing should I use to frame a picture?

Framer's grade acrylic is the standard for picture framing: it is lighter than glass and shatter-resistant. Clear acrylic suits most pieces. Non-glare acrylic is the upgrade for high-glare rooms or anything hung opposite a window, with a matte surface that cuts reflections. Acrylic is also the safer choice for very large frames or homes with kids.

Can I frame a picture without a frame?

Yes, with three options: a clipboard-style "no-frame" set (two clear panels clipped together with the artwork between), magnetic poster hangers that grip top and bottom, or simple poster tack on the wall. These are cheap and modern-looking but offer no protection from moisture.

How do you frame an unusually shaped picture?

Picture framing. A custom framer cuts the mat opening to any shape (oval, arched, deckle-edge) and cuts the frame to any size. Ready-made frames cannot accommodate non-rectangular openings.

How to Frame a Picture: A Step-by-Step Guide for Any Artwork